Review of Cafe Di Stasio
31 Fitzroy Street
St Kilda VIC 3182
(03) 9525 3999
By "The Don" and "The Barre Baroness"
It's time to celebrate some great news from the job market for The Barre Baroness, and choices needed to be made - an old favourite or something new? It has been over a year since our last visit to Cafe Di Stasio - far too long.
What we ate:
- Moscardini Affogati (Baby octopus slow cooked in red wine and chillies) and Omelette D'Aragosta (Crayfish omelette and bisque sauce)
- Porchetta Con Mela (Oven roasted suckling pig with baked apple) and Wild Boar Ragu
- Torta Di Vaniglia (White chocolate and mascarpone tart)
What we drank:
- Martini
- And from the waiter's recommendation a Chianti Classico (can't remember the exact vineyard - I am sure we'll get better at remembering this stuff)
Martinis were suburb - Tanqueray, perfectly chilled glasses, a generous side serve of big plump olives (un-pitted of course), served in a low-rise cross between a traditional martini glass and a tumbler. It was so generous one wonders if the modified glass was created to stop drunken breakages that could result in trying to tame more than one of these beasts.
James Thurber said "One martini is all right. Two are too many, and three are not enough." He wasn't drinking at Di Stasio where one is plenty!
The entrees were a highlight - the slow-cooked Octopus served to demonstrate the failings of (far too many) chefs that cook calamari and octopus fast over searing heat. The true flavour is better illuminated with a long slow simmer. The intense blend of rich white anchovy, chilli and red wine was bold - the sign of a confident menu.
Almost at the other end of the culinary spectrum - the beautifully light Crayfish omelette illustrated a deft touch. Volumes could be written about the vast differences in crayfish omelettes available in Melbourne. At Di Stasio, it is prepared in a very traditional, classic style - subtle, delicate and yet bursting with flavour and a generous amount of cray. Done right, this dish is exquisite - and it was.
Of the main courses the Suckling Pig was the pick of the bunch - that perfect combination of crisp skin and delicate, juicy meat with a light, subtle flavour (not too fatty or salty). The light, subtle sauce was served at the table - good body but not too rich. Again - as with the Omelette - subtle, simple and made to look easy.
The Wild Boar was a bit of a disappointment - cooking by numbers - yawn! It lacked finesse - that final touch or hint of creative flare that can turn some well established flavours into something more than the sum of its parts.
Dessert - rounded off the theme of the evening - simple perfect pastry, light tart filling, nutty crunch (almonds on top) - a great balance of texture, flavour and sugar.
Di Stasio is a restaurant that knows what it does well and understands its place in the Melbourne dining scene. Every visit there has provided us with a great dining experience - but perhaps with no surprises. Theirs is a study in style and sophistication with very little risk. From the glassware to the waiters they are a great illustration of the subtle pride in doing things well - with humility.
