Sweet Lemon Thai

Reviewed by - "The Don"

29 York Street,

South Melbourne

ph. (03) 9078 8527

Sweet Lemon Thai (SLT) isn't the most recent restaurant I have eaten at - and nor is it the best - but it does represent everything that I want my part of this food blog to be about.

It's the kind of place that you imagine is being run by a couple who have decided to open a restaurant and give it a go, with nothing more than energy, love and great food.

This is one of those restaurants where success has nothing to do with architecture and realestate and everything to do with passion:

Here is why it is a diamond in the rough:

• The location (in the middle of the brothel/industrial area of South Melbourne)
• The service (friendly, unpolished, honest, delightful)
• The size (16 inside, 12 outside)
• Other than a postcode SLT shares nothing with Lamaros or The Point - except beautiful food in a wonderful environment.

So far on three visits I have tried around 2/3 of the menu - and as yet I haven't come across anything other than great food. Highlights include a Jungle Curry (Ginger / Wild Peppercorn - real quality but not for the faint of heart) and Grilled Chicken (with a sublime and yet subtle mix of pepper and lemon grass).

However the out and out star of the show is Som Tum (Green Papaya Salad) - maybe it's because this is done so badly elsewhere (read soggy old papaya and weak spice) that this Som Tum yells out beautiful fresh crisp flavours.

Flavours leaping of the plate don't just happen - SLT proudly boast that all of their curry pastes are made in house and it shows.

The wine list is simple and perfunctory - but kudos for a small selection specially priced SE Asian beers that changes on a regular basis (Changi and Tiger for $5.50 last week).

The service is also representative of the general vibe of SLT - with less than 30 seats the front of house appeared to be run by one person (who appears to actually care that we are enjoying our evening)- and the kitchen is staffed by 2 - hence timing can be at the mercy of other tables needs - but if this is going to get your goat then you are in the wrong place.

More than anything SLT represents what I love about eating out - finding that diamond in the rough - discovering some great flavours produced by passionate people who care about what they are doing.

They deserve every success and if writing this blog means more custom then so be it - but the restaurant game should reward people that produce beautiful; accessible; flavoursome food.